|Sleeps Up To||6|
|Exterior Width||8' 5.5"|
|Exterior Height w/ AC||9' 9"|
For detailed information on towing, click here to view our towing guide, as found in each travel trailer owner’s manual.
As cargo is added, deleted, or shifted, the weight on the axle(s) and hitch will change.
Also, as the propane level in the LP tanks is diminished, and as the fresh water in the fresh water tank is used and transferred to the grey and black tanks, the hitch weight and axle weights of the unit may significantly change.
In shorter units, rear bath especially, when the LP tanks are empty and fresh water is transferred to grey and black holding tanks located behind the rear axle(s), the reduction in hitch weight may be significant. This is why it is recommended that the grey and black tanks be emptied before traveling.
For detailed information on towing, click here to view our towing guide, as found in each travel trailer owner’s manual.
Your Airstream’s flooring is durable and stain-resistant, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t take some care to keep it looking its best. Typically sweeping with a soft broom will do, but for bigger messes a clean, damp cloth or mop is necessary. Mild detergent will do a job for you, if needed. For more detailed care instructions, click here.
Over time, these rings are likely do develop sports and other wear, but a good polishing regimen can do wonders for them. Simply use a clean cotton rag and a fine finish polishing compound, and your trailer’s details will stay looking new. For more detailed advice, click here.
There’s a lot more to consider when washing your trailer or touring coach than when washing your car. Be sure to care properly for the aluminum exterior to keep it looking great, and use the proper tools, waxes, and cleaners. For a more detailed guide, click here.
The primary concern is getting water out of pipes and tanks, but there’s more than just that to consider, including things like battery storage. Beyond the information provided in your Airstream owners manual, click here for a detailed guide.
After having your Airstream in storage for the winter there are some things that may need to be checked out or maintenance performed, both outside and inside the trailer as well as for your tow vehicle, to make your first trip of the season more enjoyable. Click here for a full spring preparation check list.
In 1956-1959 our Ohio Marketing Group experimented with offering a Custom version of its trailers, called the CUSTOM FLEET for a 10% up charge and attempted to limit changes on its standard models (named the Cruising Fleet) to control costs. Airstream assigned a unique serial number to 10 of them, but mostly just appending a “C” after what would have been the standard serial number.
This concept was rather silly as up until then you could get any Airstream customized to your layout and option desires anyway. The concept seems to only have lasted a few years (until 1959) with Airstream going back to offering custom versions of its base models.
Our California plant was unable to offer such layout customization as they had to follow the strict California Division of Housing Regulations and Approvals.
An example of the unique serial number: O-8009C. This unit was based upon the 22′ Flying Cloud but does have a very unique layout with its symmetry from front to back, dark wood cabinets and the lack of the Princess range with just a 2-burner stove.
The Model 250 two-stage changeover regulator offers the convenience of changeover from empty to full gas cylinders, plus the additional efficiency of two-stage pressure regulation.
The top portion of the changeover is a dual high pressure regulator, which reduces container pressure to approximately 10 to 15 pounds per square inch gauge (PSIG) and sends it to the second stage regulator, which completes the regulation process by reducing the 15 PSIG inlet pressure down to 11 inches of water column (0.4 PSIG) outlet pressure.
Make sure there is propane in both cylinders before you start. Rotate the black lever on the top front side of the regulator toward the cylinder you want to use first. This will be the “service” cylinder and the other will be the “reserve” cylinder.
Slowly open both cylinder valves. The indicator on the top of the regulator will turn bright green. The indicator color will stay green as long as there is fuel coming from the service side. When the service cylinder empties, the regulator will start drawing from the reserve cylinder providing an uninterrupted fuel flow to the system. When it switches over the indicator color changes from green to red. This red color indicates that the service cylinder is empty and needs to be filled.
To remove the empty cylinder, rotate the black lever all the way over towards the reserve cylinder. The indicator will turn green and the reserve cylinder becomes the service cylinder. Now shut off the valve on the empty cylinder. Then disconnect the cylinder and have it refilled. After filling, reconnect the pigtail and slowly open the cylinder valve. The full cylinder now becomes the reserve cylinder.
LP HOSE NUT – GREEN:
The G-1851-A03 appliance side swivel nut fitting is female 1-5/16″ ACME x 1/4″ MPT. As the appliance side of the Type I connection, it makes a positive connection by threading onto the ACME threads of the LP tank valve with a user-friendly right hand turn motion. The fitting is thermally sensitive and shuts-off the flow of gas if the temperature reaches a range of 240°F – 300°F. This feature protects against uncontrolled fires and causes the cylinder valve’s back check to close, shutting off the flow of propane.
Inside the brass nipple portion is a flow-limiting device that limits the gas flow to 10 SCFH (standard cubic feet per hour) maximum flow when activated.
For additional information contact:
According to the brochure for the 1970 models they have a 50 gallon fresh water tank capacity but we believe they were downsized to 30 gallon capacity after the printing of the brochure. You unit could have either size.
If you drain your tank, time how long it takes to fill a 3 gallon bucket with your hose to get a gal/min flow rate of your outside plumbing. Then time how long it takes to refill the fresh water tank. This should give you a fairly close approximation. Unfortunately the older records are not as complete as we can get them today.
In looking to improve your reception you may want to give the new Winegard Wingman a try. It will not only improve your Winegard Sensar Batwing antenna’s VHF/UHF performance (UHF up to 100%), but also pulls in free digital programming. This lightweight add-on can be attached with four simple snap-on screws (Airstream part number 510788-20).
For further information, please call 937-596-6111, ext. 7400 or 7418.
Airstream is located at 420 W. Pike St. (St. Rt. 274), Jackson Center, OH 45334. We are located at the western edge of town.
From the north, south, and west: We are 7 miles east of Interstate 75 at exit 102.
From the east: We are 12 miles west of St. Rt. 33 near Bellefontaine.
Yes, Airstream has a service facility on site to assist you with any warranty, repairs, or upgrades you may desire. You may set up an appointment by calling 937-596-6111 for extension 7413. Or you may visit the Service tab on this website.
Airstream offers a factory tour Monday through Friday at 2 pm EST, excluding holidays and vacation shutdowns. This tour starts from our Service Center lobby located at 420 W. Pike Street (St. Rt. 274), Jackson Center, OH 45334. This walking tour lasts approximately an hour and a half. You may call 937-596-6111, ext. 7400 or 7418 for further details.
Safety glasses and hearing protection are required for the tour, and will be provided for you. The tour requires extensive walking and wheelchair & power scooter access will be limited at times.
We do not have a showroom here at the factory as we are strictly a manufacturer and cannot sell direct. You will, however, see units in varying degrees of completion throughout the tour. We have a store in our lobby for parts, accessories, apparel, etc. So come early and shop, sign-in and relax in our spacious lobby!
The complete history of the all-riveted Airstream is a little hazy. Bowlus, an aircraft designer and/or engineer, designed and manufactured the Bowlus trailer. There are still several around; there is one in the RV Hall of Fame in Elkhart, IN. Now comes the hazy part. Some people say Wally worked for Bowlus as a salesman. Wally had a sales lot in Los Angeles. It is believed that Wally actually sold the Bowlus trailer on that lot. Of course Wally was manufacturing the Torpedo, and Airlite brands. It’s suspected that Bowlus had financial problems, and was up for sale. Whether Wally acquired or purchased the Bowlus is unknown. What we do know is Wally took over the product & redesigned it and made it his own. The Clipper was now part of the Airstream lineup.
The aircraft design was acquired by Wally Byam and then his design was applied, and the rest is history.
The doorbell operates off of four “C” 1.5 volt batteries or an 8/10 transformer. The dimensions are 3 7/8″ x 6 1/2″ x 1 5/8″. The part numbers are: 511958 (for the switch) and 511966 (for the doorbell, battery powered).
Any exterior water or sewer lines will freeze if they have fluids in them. Keep them dry. Interior tanks and plumbing will be okay as long as you keep the unit heated.
You will need to use your furnace for heat. Air conditioners with heat strips and heat pumps do not work at low temperatures (below 38 degrees). The furnace will help keep the trailer’s internal water lines from freezing. Heat ducts or heating pads also assist with the lines and tanks. Running your furnace will quickly deplete your batteries if you are not connected to electricity, though. A catalytic heater may be an option as they do not use electricity.
You can put a gallon of RV antifreeze into your gray and black tanks as this will settle down to the drain pipes and helps prevent the pipes from freezing up. A trick for the exterior is to buy a spare sewer outlet cap, then drill and mount a lamp socket to it. Wire up the socket and use a low wattage bulb such as a Christmas light. It will keep the outlet area warm as well as the adjoining pipes.
Take in your city water line at night and use your internal fresh water tank overnight. Use your fresh water & sewer hoses as needed but take them up and drain them well until you need them again. Be sure to winterize the city water inlet.
Traveling on icy roadways is definitely more dangerous as traveling during the summer.
Use silver roll insulation between the windows & the curtains as well as the skylight and fan locations. This will help retain heat when extremely cold.
Keep your electrical cords, cable & phone lines off the ground, as they may become stuck to snow & ice.
A blow dryer is a safe way to thaw pipes.
Be sure to install fresh batteries in your smoke alarm before traveling.
Do not use your cooktop and/or oven to heat your unit. These are for cooking only.
Following are a few key steps to a cleaner, brighter tile:
This fabric is actually pretty tough. It’s difficult to give a universal solution since cleaning depends on what caused the stain. For example: aluminum dust, dissolved wood fiber, glue, food or exterior leak (which could contain dirt & minerals).
We recommend using compressed air first to remove as much loose dirt as possible so it doesn’t get worked into the fabric. Then, clean the soiled or stained areas of the white fuzzy fabric. You can start by trying a mild bleach solution (carefully, of course, and in a small area first). Soak lightly and blot more than rub, as the fabric may “pill” if rubbed too much.
You may also try a mild solution of detergent or OxiClean with light scrubbing as well. Work this solution into the stain with a plastic scrub brush. Use micro fiber towels to rinse the area with clean water.
Commercial stain removers (carpet stain products) may be used also.
Yes. Winegard has a tool that can tighten the antenna. It is similar to a 15/16″ deep-well socket. It tightens the integral mechanical gearbox assembly of the antenna.
You should, however, first check to make sure the antenna is mounted and secured properly. The base should be securely attached to the roof and sealed properly to prevent water intrusion. The antenna mount must be secured to a solid portion of the roof. If it’s sloppy when fully extended, it’s likely to be the worn or loose gears. I’d suggest tightening the gear assembly first using the Winegard tool or a deep socket.
It could also be due to worn gears. Winegard also offers a gear replacement kit that will probably help the instability problem caused by worn, old-style gears. You can tell if you have the older gears by inspecting the cranking rod from inside the RV. Remove the crank handle and spring by loosening the set-screw and take a look at the shaft that extends down below the ceiling. If the rod is round, it’s the older style; if it’s a hexagon shape, it’s the newer style.
Always use extreme caution when working with ladders and on the roof.
Remove the lift arms. Raise the window “high.” The two “J”-shaped hinges will separate. Place the window on a carpet or blanket. Remove the old gasket. Burnish the sash with a wire wheel and an electric drill. Place the “Super Weather-Strip” adhesive on the sash and on the back of the gasket. When dry to the touch, place the gasket in position with the seam at the bottom. DO NOT stretch the gasket.
Use plenty of adhesive. Reinstall the window, reinstall the lift arms, close the window and latch it. After a couple of hours, open the window and flood the gasket with silicone spray. Leave the window open for an hour or so. Close the window. After a few days, open the window and wipe the excess silicone spray off.
CAUTION: The gasket flares must go outward, the proper adhesive must be used, and be very careful when you engage the hinges, especially on the large windows.
You should apply a thin coating of grease (such as Reese Hitch Ball Lube) over the surface of the hitch ball to prevent as much friction as possible. There is nothing more awful than the sound of metal against metal when turning.
You will want to clean the hitch ball monthly and apply a new coating of grease. At the same time you will want to clean out the coupler (ball socket and ball clamp) and apply a thin coating of grease.
While you are already down on your hands and knees, lubricate any moving parts on the coupler with SAE 30 weight oil. It also is a good time to be checking for any wear or damage that may have occurred to the hitch ball or coupler.
When you are not towing, cover the hitch ball with some type of cover such as a tennis ball or a rubber boot that is especially designed for the ball.
Most common water spots are caused by mineral deposits. A 50/50 solution of vinegar and water does a great job of neutralizing these marks. There are also products such as Duragloss Water Spot Remover – Paint (#505) is a formula that safely removes water spots (normally calcium & magnesium) without removing durable polishes.
The unit should have lug bolts and the torque would be 85 lbs. More current models would have lug nuts, and the proper wheel torque would be 100 lbs.
NOTE: Changing rims can change torque!
It sounds as if the effects of use have rounded the shoulder off of the locking slot. Inspect the outrigger or sliding bolt. Based on the age of the trailer, it may be ready for a new outrigger.
You can locate your nearest dealer at www.airstream.com or by calling 937-596-6111. The Airstream Dealer Network is the exclusive distributor of all Airstream products and parts.
Your satisfaction as an Airstream owner is of the utmost importance to us. If you should experience difficulty in obtaining parts through your selected dealer, please contact us directly for assistance.
Older units may find it necessary to utilize a local upholstery or cabinet shop to obtain substitutes for parts no longer available. Fabrics can also be chosen from our current offerings to give your unit a fresher, more updated look.
Have your unit serial number handy when calling for parts.
The Ultra 500 Power Twin system is designed for stabilizing your trailer only. It is not to be used to raise the trailer from the ground.
Your Power Twin leveling system is relatively maintenance free, but there are several ways to help keep them operating trouble-free.
Keep the leveler free of excess dirt and road chemicals by periodically hosing off the stabilizers and spraying the entire system (including the jack screw assembly) with a light coat of silicone, graphite or similar product. Do not use heavy grease or lubricant that will hold dirt.
The motor gear assembly should be re-greased periodically through the grease fitting (depending on year of manufacture) which is located on the clutch gear housing at the motor assembly. Fill the gear cavity with a heat-resistant grease (the same type used to lube cars) until the grease just begins to flow out of the grease cavity relief indicator hole. Wipe off excess grease.
Never use pneumatic-powered lube equipment as it can damage the leveler unit. Use the hand operated grease gun only.
Also you may want to check to make sure all bolts are tight on footpads or where stabilizers are attached to the frame, as frequent use can cause bolts and nuts to loosen.
You may want to also consider carrying some extra 30 amp glass slow blow fuses with you when traveling. If you operate both leveling switches at the same time when actually lifting your trailer you may overload the motor, causing the fuse to fail. The fuse holder is located next to the operating switches.
Always make sure you know where your emergency hand crank is so you are not left high and dry if the jack motor should fail to operate.
Your leveling system should never be totally immersed in water and always remember to retract system before moving your trailer.
Stabilizer jacks are meant to take the “rock and roll” out of the trailer only. You level the trailer from side to side with something under the tires such as wood or tiles. The front to back level is done with the hitch jack. Once level you drop the stabilizing jacks down to make the trailer secure from motion.
The Atwood combination gas/electric water heater can be operated on gas or electric or in combination. The current model water heaters have a thermostat that is set at 140 degrees; the same thermostat is used to control both gas and electric.
Earlier models (prior to 2003) had two separate thermostats. The gas thermostat was located on the outside of the tank below the pressure relief valve and the electric thermostat was located on the back of the tank. The thermostat will shut off when the temperature reaches 140 degrees and start the heating process when the temperature drops below 115 degrees.
If the thermostat should fail, the water heater also has an ECO (Energy Cut-Off) device that will shut the heater down at 170 degrees. Also the water heater has a pressure relief valve that will open at approximately 210 degrees or between 125/150 psi.
It is safe to use your water heater on 110V only with no adverse affects. You may also use both gas and electric at the same time to reduce the cycling time of heating cold water. It can typically take up to 40 minutes to heat water to 140 degrees using 110V and that time can be reduced to about 20 minutes by using both heat sources.
If you do not feel your water heater is operating properly, please contact a certified Atwood service center.
If you have not operated your water heater on gas for several weeks, you may want to check your main burner tube and flue tube for obstructions before firing up the heater. Spider webs, insects and other debris can accumulate causing problems with the gas flow in the tubes.
Dometic states a 3500-watt generator is required in order to properly operate the air conditioner. While a 2800-watt generator may run the air conditioner, a 3500-watt generator is recommended due to the initial load during start-up.
Audio-In: The audio-in inputs are for an MP3 player. To activate this feature, press the source button to the CD channels (CDCH1-4). Once a CD channel is displayed, scroll through channels 1-4 by using the “MODE” button. Select CDCH 3 to activate.
Here is a reference on the CD channels:
Speaker Selector Switch: The speaker selector switch is for the optional wireless exterior speakers. On the speaker control there is an output plug. This is where the transformer will plug into and send the audio to the exterior speakers.
There is also a selector that is marked “in, out and both”.
IN – Interior Dinette & Bedroom speakers only and subwoofer.
OUT – Exterior speakers only with subwoofer disabled.
BOTH – Interior Dinette & Exterior speakers only…bedroom speakers are disabled to give a quiet space for someone to rest.